Andalou Naturals - Revitalizing Lash + Lid Makeup Remover, Blossom + Leaf Toning Refresher

Purchased items.

I suffered through terrible acne as a teenager, and have had fussy skin since then, so I don't tend to experiment a lot with my skincare, but I do like to try new versions of the kinds of products that work for me overall. 

Two categories that I'm especially into are 1) oil cleansers and 2) hydrating toners. 

My skin just doesn't tolerate foaming-type cleansers very well, getting drier, more fragile-feeling and more prone to breakouts the more consistently I use them. Oil cleansers, especially the kind that rinse off, are a better bet, though they're obviously not all created equal. Some tend to make me break out (sweet almond oil, you luscious-smelling bastard), and some have an overly aggressive emulsification that doesn't just rinse off the oil in the product, but my skin's natural oils as well (hello, Bride of the Mummy).

As for hydrating toners, I think they're just the most versatile product. Skin feeling pretty balanced? A spritz in the morning layered with a light oil on drier spots is enough to keep my skin fresh without adding the weight of a moisturizer. Need more help? Mix some more drops of facial oil with a spray of toner in the palm of my hand to make a light emulsion, and press into the skin for a beautiful, healthy glow. Skin looking like a vanilla pound cake after applying foundation? A few passes of toning spray and I look like a human being again. A toner loaded with skin-loving ingredients is my slinky black shirt - I can make it work for me in almost every circumstance.

So since I'm trying to find more "green" and "natural" ways of doings things in my life (while still making the grade in terms of being evidence-based), I decided to try a couple of those options from the brand Andalou Naturals. (This isn't a brand I was familiar with until recently, but I came across them on www.well.ca.)

The formulations sounded interesting, though the fruit stem cell thing is a bit of nonsense.

This is the claim the brand makes:

"Fruit Stem Cell Science® renews skin at the cellular level. Award-winning Malus Domestica (Apple) and Solar Vitis (Grape) Stem Cells provide ‘universal’ cells to energize skin cell function for enhanced immunity, longevity and vitality. Fruit Stem Cell Science® accelerates the skin’s own ability to repair and replenish health cells effectively replacing older, weak and damaged cells. These universal cells become activated skin cells and elasticity and resilience are restored."

Eh. Fruit stem cells sound like a perfect blend of green and science-y, but stem cells can't survive in a cosmetic formulation to do anything like what's being claimed here. It's possible that eventually stem cells will be used in skincare applications, but the research isn't there yet.

If you're inclined, you can read more about their claims here, but personally I give it all a big ole side-eye.

That said, they are full of other nice, effective things, including antioxidants and skin-soothing and skin-repairing ingredients.

Revitalizing Lash + Lid Makeup Remover: Aloe Barbadensis Juice*, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Oil*, Glyceryl Stearate, Fruit Stem Cells (Malus Domestsica, Solar Vitis) and BioActive 8 Berry Complex*, Cetyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Cocoate, Biotin, Hyaluronic Acid, Ginkgo Biloba Extract*, Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizinate (Licorice) Extract*, Rosa Canina (Rosehip) Oil*, Phenethyl Alcohol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Aspalathus Linearis (Rooibos), Hibiscus Sabdariffa and Camellia Sinensis (White Tea) Extracts*^ Non-GMO verified *Organic ^Fair Trade

Normally I wouldn't be too fussed about "fancy" ingredients in a cleanser (since the potential benefits are shortchanged by the length of time the product remains on your skin), but this is the kind of cleanser that gets massaged in for a while, so I'm willing to give them a bit more weight.

Jojoba is nice oil for facial application, as it's usually kind to reactive skin and the texture feels fairly luxurious in a formulation. Biotin is in here to supposedly boost your lashes, but I don't see it doing much of anything in this kind of application. The plant extracts in here are anti-irritants (liquorice) and antioxidants, and the rose hip oil is a nicely nourishing oil as well.

This is marketed specifically as a product for removing eye makeup, and they recommend applying it to dry skin, massaging lightly and wiping away with a cotton pad. Used this way, I found it only moderately effective. It got most makeup off, but didn't make much of a dent in my Marc Jacobs eyeliner, for example. I found it was a better when I added in a bit of water to emulsify, but only marginally. As such, I wouldn't recommend it to be used primarily as an eye makeup remover, especially if you tend to wear heavier, more waterproof makeup.

That said, I found it really lovely to use as either a second all-over facial cleanse in the evening, or as my morning cleanse, when I didn't have to worry about removing a ton of gunk. I found it left my skin fresh and soft, and not feeling stripped. I'm considering it as a replacement for my currently-used Clarins Extra-Comfort Cleansing Cream, which is unfortunately not cruelty-free.

Lash + Lid Makeup Remover, massaged in.
From top to bottom: Le Metier and Kat Von D liquid liners, Marc Jacobs eyeliner, Urban Decay eyeliner. 

Wiped away.
From top to bottom: Le Metier and Kat Von D liquid liners, Marc Jacobs eyeliner, Urban Decay eyeliner. 

Blossom + Leaf Toning Refresher: Aloe Barbadensis Juice*, Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5), Tocopherol (Vitamin E), Lauric Acid, Fruit Stem Cells (Malus Domestsica, Solar Vitis) and BioActive 8 Berry Complex*, Resveratrol, Ubiquinone (CoQ10), Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (Vitamin C), Aspalathus Linearis (Rooibos), Hibiscus Sabdariffa and Camellia Sinensis (White Tea) Extracts*^, Phenethyl Alcohol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Citrus Aurantium (Petitgrain) and Geranium Maculatum Oils* Non-GMO verified *Organic ^Fair Trade

I'm on the fence about glycerin in my toners - sometimes I like the extra boost of hydration, and the extra glow it gives when used over makeup, sometimes I can't stand the sticky feeling it leaves behind. This formulation omits it, and instead gets some hydration benefits from panthenol. It also includes lauric acid, which comes from coconut oil and actually has anti-inflammatory and anti-acne benefits, as well as great antioxidants in the form of Vitamin C, Resvetratrol and CoQ10, and the aforementioned plant extracts. It also does contain Petigrain and Geranium essential oils, which may have some anti-bacterial benefits in the amounts present, but for me mainly serve to give the mist a delightful herbal scent. If you're sensitive to fragrance, do be aware that these may be an issue.

I really like this toner. I love how my skin feels after using it, and I find the scent more pleasing than the Caudalie one everyone seems to adore. If I were to nitpick, I would suggest making the nozzle deliver a finer spray for the purposes of setting makeup. (It's not like it's spitting at me, but it could optimally be a finer, more diffused mist.) Since I don't assume that's how most people would use it though, it's a teeny tiny quibble.

Overall, I'm pleased with my foray into Andalou Naturals, and will likely try more. Especially if Well.ca runs any more discount codes. (They're are 17.95$ CAD each, at regular price.)

Spring Sakura ob for Shu Uemura Cleansing Oils

Does cleaning your face with oil sound counter-productive and strange? If so, I understand. I felt much the same way until a few years ago, when I first discovered the traditional Oil Cleansing Method. It turns out that when done right, cleaning your skin with oil is an incredibly effective way of removing impurities and clearing pores, while maintaining the natural PH balance of skin (and therefore the skin barrier that allows us to retain moisture).

It took me some experimenting with a few different products and methods to land on what works best for me. For one, I had to forgo the traditional method of using hot water and a washcloth to remove the oil. It's far too rough for my sensitive, redness-prone skin. Instead, I found cleansing oils that emulsify with water, which are massaged onto dry skin, then moistened and massaged a little more, and then rinsed cleanly off. Discovering these was a complete game-changer for my skincare, and I have been loyal to oil cleansing ever since.

I've tried a few different brands over the years, and have coveted the Shu Uemura oils for nearly as long. After all, the Shu version is one of the originators; the first one was introduced to the Japanese market it 1967, based on an oil cleanser Mr. Uemura discovered while working in Hollywood during the 1950s. I was ridiculously thrilled to be offered the chance to review part of the ob for Shu Uemura set.

There are six different cleansing oil formulations currently available, with four being offered in the limited edition ob packaging. I received the following three to test:

Cleansing Beauty Oil Premium A/O Advanced Formula (green bottle/box) for aging concerns, Whitefficient Clear Brightening Gentle Cleansing Oil (blue bottle/box) for dull skin, and Pore Clarifying Gentle Cleansing Oil (pink bottle/box) for combination and oily skin.

The boxes and bottles have artwork that represents three different, mythological tales.

The pink is the story of Sakura Hime, the Cherry Blossom Princess, who sleeps through the seasons, only to awaken to Spring and to dance the flowers to life. The green is the story of Midori Hime, the Forest Princess, who nurses wounded animals (and humans) back to health. The blue is the story of Umi Hume, the Ocean Princess, who is sweet by nature but fights to protect her realm.

I think the art and the stories are sweet and lovely, but if the style is not your cup of tea, all of the oils are also available in the regular, unadorned packaging.

But lets move on from form to function, shall we? I should mention first that all of these oils contain mineral oil as the primary cleansing oil. I have no problem using mineral oil on my skin, but if that is a concern for you...well, this may not be for you. (Personally, I think that allergies and preferences aside, the concerns about mineral oil are not at all in line with actual scientific data on its effects and performance. But that's a rant for another time.)

I tested each of these oils for a period of four days each, morning and night, to get a decent idea of how they work.

Pore Clarifying Gentle Cleansing Oil (pink bottle/box) for combination and oily skin.

Contains sakura leaf extract for its anti-inflammatory effect, salicylic acid for exfoliation, and cherry extract for more exfoliation.

This is my personal favourite. Let me be clear: I LOVE THIS. SO MUCH. You-will-pry-this-out-of-my-cold-dead-hands love.

 It is extremely light-weight, slips right over the skin, and has a faintly floral fragrance. The pore-cleansing effects were immediately visible - when I towelled off my skin, I saw that the clogged pores had diminished drastically, and overall the pores looked cleaner and smaller. This is honestly the only cleanser I've ever used that has had such a dramatic and apparent effect on my pores. It's like a little micro-hoover went around sucking out all the ooky stuff.

This also took off my makeup with ease, and left my skin feeling silky-smooth, though still in need of moisturizer.

Whitefficient Clear Brightening Gentle Cleansing Oil (blue bottle/box) for dull skin.

Contains prune extracts to lower melanin transfer from lower layers of the skin, algae and vitamin C to brighten skin.

This was similar to the Pore Clarifying Gentle Cleansing Oil in terms of overall texture and performance. It removed makeup and cleaned my skin as thoroughly. I did not notice that the pore-clearing effect was quite as strong, though my skin felt just as smooth afterwards. I actually like the scent of this a little more - it's a fresh, watery, very faintly floral. I would love to have it in perfume form.

I can't really speak to the long-term brightening effect, as I did not test it long enough, but my skin did look refreshed.

Cleansing Beauty Oil Premium A/O Advanced Formula (green bottle/box) for aging concerns.

Contains ginko leaf extract for its antioxidant and micro-circulation properties, and green tea extract to revitalize skin.

This is a heavier, cushy-feeling oil, which is expected as it is rich in a variety of plant oils, including jojoba and macadamia. Both of those are excellent for moisturizing dry skin, especially jojoba, which is the closest oil to our natural skin oils. If you have dry, dehydrated, mature skin, I think this is probably the ideal cleansing oil for you. After using it, my skin felt softened and like I needed less moisturizer than usual. I prefer the pore-busting effects of the other two oils, but for skin that needs some pampering to go along with the deep-cleaning, this is perfect. If you have oilier skin, or are prone to clogged pores, this may be too rich. I will be passing it on to my mom, who will revel in its skin-loving qualities.

It has a more herbal scent, which is in line with the concept of a Forest Princess, but which was my least favourite of the three.

Overall, I am SO happy that I had the chance to try these guy out, and I am especially blown away with the Pore Clarifying/Cherry Blossom Princess Cleansing Oil. Combined with my BHA/AHA exfoliating regimen, it is going to kick ass and take names over the next few weeks!

Availability: On the Canadian Shu Uemura website, as well as the US one, though it seems the Premium A/O is not currently up with the ob packaging. Prices range between 79$ CAD and 98$ CAD.

Pros: Cleans skin and takes makeup off like nobody's business, with various levels of pore-clearing strength. Doesn't leave skin feeling stripped, with a range of options for dry to oily skin. Ridiculously cute packaging.

Cons: Contains mineral oil, which for some is a deal-breaker. The scents may be a problem if you're sensitive, or if they're not your preference. I can't think of anything else - just make sure to pick the right formula for your skin type.

So what about you guys? Have you tried cleansing oils? Are you already fans of the Shu versions, or are there other staples in your beauty closet?

(The items were sent to me by the brand to consider for review. This post is not sponsored or compensated.)