Dior Mystic Metallics Collection Fall 2013 - Bonne Étoile Palette

Some makeup items are so beautiful, they're almost magic. And like a lot of magic acts, these items can require a fair bit of backstage work to achieve that glorious on-stage effect. Such is the case with the Bonne Étoile Palette from the Dior Mystic Metallics Fall 2013 Collection, with its beautiful design and stunning colours.

If you know me, you know of my terrible, crushing weakness for all things Dior. When I saw the promo pictures for this collection, I drove my Dior counter SAs crazy with almost daily phone calls, and when I heard this palette was in stock, I literally raced over to the snag it (taking advantage of a Pharmaprix Optimum offer at the same time). I barely even bothered to test it in the store, which is, perhaps, why I was a little taken aback the first time I tried applying it.

The color range is just gorgeous, Fall-like without being stereotypical, and they work together brilliantly. The shades all swatched nicely on my arm, with beautiful shimmer and sparkle. Getting that same intensity to show up on my eyes was a different story.

The smoky olive green in the top left corner has good pigmentation, and an absolutely gorgeous golden sparkle that for the most part falls away upon application. And while the payoff is good in terms of opacity, something about the olive undertones is lost, and it winds up looking almost muddy. It works well enough to smoke out the look or to add depth, but I've found using it wet is the best way to maintain that olive tone. The golden sparkle is better retained this way as well, and it creates an incredible, burnished metal eye look.

The pale silvered taupe in the top right corner has the most metallic finish, and sheer-to-medium pigmentation. This is probably the most magical shade out of the group - applied with a natural-bristle brush, it gives a faint fairy-like sparkle. Applied dry with a flat synthetic brush, it creates a lovely metallic look that is nice on its own, but that has enough sheerness to layer nicely over another shade. Applied wet, it has an intense foil-like finish that is super high-impact.

The bronze shade in the middle has a similar texture and finish to the olive green, with the same issues. It looks less muddy, however, and makes for a very nice crease shade. I had similarly much more vibrant results using it wet.

The seafoam green shade in the bottom right corner is the sheerest, with a slightly powdery finish. It can be built up over a primer or base, but the effect will remain whimsical and delicate. I had the best application using a flat synthetic brush over my usual MAC 239.

The pewter-teal shade in the bottom left corner has a stronger shimmer and smoother, denser texture than the bronze or the olive. It has the truest-to-pan result, and used wet it is off the charts gorgeous.

Overall, I find the textures of this palette to be more powdery and less dense and creamy than I'm used to from Dior, and the colour payoff to be both less vibrant and more sheer than I expected from the swatches. The powderiness makes it difficult to pick up and pack on colour, though it makes blending easier. Without a primer, fading was obvious 5-6 hours in (with a primer, a solid 9 hours before I saw any fading.)

However, using the right tools and the right mediums, the results could be absolutely stunning. Applied dry and using natural-hair brushes, the effect is softer and hazier - still pretty, but far less dramatic that the look of the promo images and the palette itself suggests.

Availability: Still out at some Pharmaprix/SDM locations. Price is 62$ CAD.

Pros: Lovely design, beautiful shade range that doesn't skew too warm. Amazing metallic and sparkle finishes that vary from delicate and fey to intensely dramatic depending on application tools and medium.

Cons: Powdery texture makes it difficult to get the same intensity as in the pan, and some of the glitter gets lost along the way. Wear doesn't make it through a workday without a primer.

(I purchased this item.)

Dior Birds of Paradise Summer 2013 - Nude Tan Paradise Coral Glow Blush and Bronzer Duo

Wooosh. Posting this one under the wire, as the Dior Fall collection is almost upon us. The Dior Nude Tan Paradise Coral Glow is so pretty it deserves some ogling, no matter how belated.

I mean...LOOK AT THIS GORGEOUSNESS.

If you're a sucker for detail like I am, then you'll appreciate all the little touches that make this compact outstanding. Everything from the canage pattern on the exterior of the palette that is repeated in the raised pattern of the lettering, to the little (and perfectly usable!) brush that tags along. 

This is a beautiful blush/bronzer duo, and no less so on the skin than it is in the pan. One side is a light, golden-toned bronzer that looks supremely natural on light-to-medium skin like mine. It's not deep enough to work well as a contour, but with something as golden and luminous as this, you'd be doing it (and yourself) a disservice to use it as anything other than bronzer. It's meant to give your skin that lovely burnished glow. The effect is subtle and beautiful - very difficult to overdo.

Because of the very warm undertone, however, I would be wary of using on truly ivory skin, as it will tend to look sallow.

The blush, on the other hand, is easier to overdo. When I was testing this out in the store, the SA applied it and immediately reached for another brush to blend it out. We were NOT expecting the HI I'M CORAL WANT TO BE MY FRIEND levels of pigment. It was...intense. Applied with a soft brush, however, this is a very wearable, vibrant coral pink that is stunning on both lighter and tanned skin. In fact, it looks best when you apply the bronzer across the cheeks, and then add a pop of the coral right at the high point of the cheekbone and blend back. It gives the effect of having spent the day at the beach, without the actual sunburn.

Both sides have a wee bit of shimmer, which reads more like "sheen of good health" than "blinded by the light". The texture - like many Dior powders in my experience - is soft, silky, finely-milled and a dream to blend. The wear time is about average - some fading around hour 6, but not to a degree that needs touching up. (Though you'll take the excuse to whip out the beautiful compact anyway.)

Both shades blended together give a warmer, more apricot-leaning shade that is just made for warm-toned redheads.

Bronzer and blush sides separately, swatched more heavily.

Both sides blended and applied with a brush.

Availability: Still available on The Bay website, and possibly some Bay and Sephora locations. Price is 56$ CAD and USD.

Pros: Stunning packaging and luxurious detail. Brush is small, travel-friendly and usuable. Shades are perfect for light to medium complexions, though the bronzer is best on warmer undertones. Texture is fine-milled and very blendable. Great pigmentation.

Cons: Wear time is average, and there is shimmer, if that's a concern. But I'm nitpicking.

(I purchased this item from Pharmaprix/SDM.)

Dior Birds of Paradise Summer 2013 - Blue Lagoon and Peacock 5-Couleurs Eyeshadow Palettes

I generally adore Dior palettes. It's a rare collection that doesn't tempt me with at least one, and the Birds of Paradise collection was no exception. I stopped by the local Pharmaprix that has a Dior counter THE DAY it was launched, and was told they only had one each left in stock. I quickly swatched them in store and, my eyes filled with glorious blue-green visions of Piscean wonder, snapped them up right quick.

In retrospect, I should have taken more time.

They are not terrible, by any means (certainly nothing like last summer's chalky pastel mess), but they are a bit of a mixed bag.

Based on appearances alone, both Peacock and Blue Lagoon are stunners.

Left to right: Peacock and Blue Lagoon

I mean, aquas and smoky teals and golden-greens? That's my natural plumage, right there.

Dior Peacock 5-Couleurs Palette

Natural light. Clockwise from top left in the palette, with middle shade of the palette swatched last on the right.

Sunlight.

The best Dior shadows have a dense and creamy texture, with medium pigmentation that lends itself well to both soft washes and building up for intensity. Out of all of these, the golden-green from the top left and the middle shade - a pale aqua-cream - are examples of this formula, and the standout performers. Both apply easily and blend well, and last for an average workday without problems, especially over a primer.

The dusky teal shade (bottom left in the palette) seemed to have a touch of duochrome in the pan, but it doesn't quite come out swatched or applied on the eye. It has good pigmentation, though a slightly drier texture than the other two. It does best when patted on with a MAC 239 type brush if you're going for the same degree of intensity, though blended in the crease I found no issues in terms of application or wear.

The middle shade in the swatch line-up (bottom right in the palette) is more problematic. The colour is interesting - a pale golden green with a strong beige undertone, like pea soup with a ton of cream added. Unfortunately, it's one of the poorer shades. Sheerer and more powdery, it doesn't seem to show much when applied. It does better over a cream eyeshadow for a base, but even then, it looks sort of dull, in an unintended way. If it was more opaque, I think the murky but pale shade would be interesting. With more delicate colouring than mine, the effect might be more flattering, however it was still troublesome to work with. I found that application of this one definitely benefitted from a tightly-packed paddle brush like the 239, or a sponge applicator.

The second shade in the line-up (top right in the palette) was not good on any level. A warm cream, it is sheer and powdery, and didn't seem to do much when applied except drop down some of the glitter. Meh.

Dior Blue Lagoon 5-Couleurs Palette

Natural light. Clockwise, from top left in the palette, middle shade swatched at far right.

Sunlight.

The last three shades in the swatch line-up (and the lower two and the middle shade in the palette) are the best out of all, with that classic Dior texture, wear and colour payoff. The pale iridescent green applies whiter than I was expecting, but you can definitely still see that green flash. It is a gorgeous colour, and is stunning as an inner corner highlight. The medium turqouise shade again looks like it has some duochrome in the pan, but it's less obvious when applied, more of a fine golden sheen. The deep-sea blue of the middle shade is equally beautiful. All three apply well, blend without a hitch and look fantastic together. Had this been a trio, it would have been perfect.

Unfortunately, the same can't be said for the other two shades. The bright blue from the top left is actually quite pigmented, but the powdery nature makes it difficult to transfer to the skin. I found the best result was using a primer, and then a creamy white pencil (something like NYX Milk or Cottage Cheese), and layering it overtop of that. The result then is an opaque, wonderfully 60s pastel shade.

The second shade in the swatch line-up (top right in the palette) is just...a bummer really. It is ridiculously sheer, with next to no adherence to the skin. I'm at a loss to explain this one. Is it meant to be the barest wash of blueish shimmer imaginable? I don't know how anyone in RnD thought this was worthy of being included. At a stretch, it can be layered over a dark, matte cream eyeshadow to add a faintly metallic sheen.

Overall, my impression of these palettes skews more positive than negative. I can't say that I fully regret buying them, since they do have some lovely colours and I'm enraptured by the general feel of this collection as much as anything else. These are not un-dupable shades, and for 60$, the pretty colours may not be enough to overcome the shortcomings. That said, they are far from unworkable.

Eyes: Dior Peacock Palette, Rimmel Scandaleyes in Nude,
YSL Eyeliner Effet Faux Cils in Jade Black, Pixi Mascara

Face: Guerlain Parure de Lumiere in Beige Clair, Dior Nude Tan Paradise in Coral Glow,
MUFE HD Concealer

Lips: Clarins Eclat Minute Lip Perfector in Candy Shimmer

Availability: At some Dior counters at The Bay, as well as online. Also at select SDM/Pharmaprix locations, and Nordstrom. Price is 60$ USD and CAD.

Pros: Three good to great shades in each palette, with creamy, dense textures, good pigmentation and easy application. Wear was about 8 hours for these shades over a primer. The colour range of the bottom three shades in the Blue Lagoon palette is particularly beautiful.

Cons: Each palette has one challenging but workable shade (or one that might be better on very pale skin tones) and one shade that is just poor - sheer, dusty, problematic on all levels.

(I purchased these items from the Dior counter at SDM/Pharmaprix.)

Dior Nude Lip Blush - Grège, Charnelle and Esquisse

The Nude Lip Blush collection from Dior sort of snuck up on me last month. I was already looking out for the deep, plummy shades I associate with fall, so this subtle, restrained collection knocked me back a step. I wasn't expecting to love it as much as I do, but I ended up picking up three of the lipstick shades in one shot.

Left to right: Esquisse, Charnelle, Grège.

The color palette is a beautifully edited set of nudes, as the name would obviously imply, but these are no bland, milksop shades or this-side-of-zombie beige-lip neutrals. Ranging from creamy pink to brownish plum, they play up the lips instead of playing them down, the sheer pigment and glossy texture creating a plump, refreshed appearance. A "My Lips But Better" range.

Not all the shades will be universally flattering, of course, but I think you are more likely to find that elusive perfect nude shade in this collection than in any other. There is at least one nude in here to suit every complexion. The three I chose were the ones that worked the best for my colouring - light neutral skin, dark eyes, light-brown hair.

Grège is a light peach with an undertone of beige. 

(Grège is the French term for a gray-beige shade. This is a MUCH prettier color than the name suggests.)

Charnelle is a soft, warm pink.

It is similar to Grège, and you probably don't need both.

Esquisse is a muted berry with a hint of brown.

The finish and feel of these is terrific. They actually remind me a bit of the Revlon Lip Butters, but with a more refined texture - lighter, less balmy. They apply smoothly, as you'd expect, and feel luscious on the lips. My lips didn't feel saturated with moisture, but did feel hydrated throughout the time I was wearing these, and even looked a tad smoother and plumper.

They are not as long-lasting as Dior lipsticks generally are on me, but don't fade as quickly as a gloss. They also sort of "sink in" to the lip, looking less like lipstick and more like a natural tint as they wear away.

Grège, Charnelle, Esquisse. Natural light.

Grège, Charnelle, Esquisse. Artificial light.

Grège, Charnelle, Esquisse. Sunlight.

Availability: At Sephora, Nordstrom, The Bay, certain Pharmaprix/SDM locations. Price is 36$ CAD.

Pros: Very natural, wearable nudes, with the transluscent pigment making them that much easier to wear. Comfortable and hydrating feel.

Cons: Due to sheerer and glossier texture, don't wear quite as long as other lipsticks.

(I purchased these from Pharmaprix.)

Dior Diorskin Nude Tan Healthy Glow Enhancing Powder - Sunlight

With an epically long product name, the Diorskin Nude Tan Healthy Glow Enhancing Powder in Sunlight has a lot of promises to live up to. Nude? Yes. Tan? Yes. Healthy Glow? You betcha.

But first, the packaging.

As usual with Dior, you can count on some pretty swanky exterior features. The details for this are just gorgeous - the usual velvet pouch has an extra flap, and the Cannage pattern on the silver compact adds an elegant touch. The whole thing is deliciously weighty, and you can't wait to it take out of your purse for public touch-ups.

It also comes with a mini kabuki, which is actually soft and very functional. It's not a replacement for a full-size brush, but works perfectly for lunch-hour touch-ups.

The Nude Tan comes in two shades - Sunset, which is darker and more golden-warm, and Sunlight, which is lighter and has a rosy-peach undertone. I looked at both, but judged the Sunset too warm for my liking, and liked the notion of a bronzer that could double as a blush.

Yeah. I have no words for how pretty this is. It actually makes me feel more cheerful to look at it, as if the promise of Summer has somehow been pressed into a little pan form.

It's not super obvious in the pictures above, but there is a really fine sparkle dusted throughout. It doesn't read at all on the skin however.

Indirect natural light.
Left to right: the two 'base' shades (darker, then lighter), the two 'raised letter' shades.

Direct sunlight.

The compact is broken up into two base shades, and two shades that form the raised lettering. The base shades would best be described as a light, slightly rosy tan and a light, golden-beige tan. The raised portions would be a light peachy-pink and a neutral tan.

The overall effect is warm-toned without being too gold or orange, and strikes me as the kind of shade that would be flattering on both cooler and warmer complexions.

Light blended swatch, indirect natural light.

Applied with the mini kabuki, indirect natural light.

If you're looking for a contour palette or a deep bronzer, this is definitely not the right product for you. However, if you want something that will make your skin look sun-kissed, radiant, faintly blushed, then this is EXACTLY the item you need.

The powder itself is incredibly soft and finely-milled, applying super-smoothly to the skin. I was able to build up layers to an impressive degree without ever seeing perceptible powder on my skin.

This is a truly beautiful item that feels like pure luxury to use. With the particular mix of rose and tan tones, and the superfine sheen, it gives the kind of subtle, polished look that really should take more time and product to achieve.

This wore well throughout the day for me on foundation-prepped skin, but because of the refined texture, it won't be a problem to reapply during the day if you find you need (or want) to.

Availability: This can still be found at certain Pharmaprix/SDM locations, as well as at Sephora.com and Nordstrom.com. Certain Bay locations may still have it, but online only the Sunset is left. Price is 56$ CAD (which includes the mini kabuki).


Pros: Stunning packaging, luxurious feeling, incredible texture. The luminous finish and mix of tones makes for a subtle, 3-in-1 look.

Cons: None, though it is best suited for lighter complexions, unless used as a discreet highlighter on deeper skin tones.
(I purchased this item at Pharmaprix/SDM.)

Dior 5 Couleurs Eyeshadow Palette - Couture Golds

I'm still procrastinating on the Dior Spring palettes - too pretty, can't bring myself to use them yet. This week! I will do it this week, I swear.

In the meantime, I bring you Couture Golds, from the Dior Holiday collection. (It was rather delayed here in Canada, so I only picked it up toward the end of December.)

I enjoy Dior packaging. It always feels nicely hefty, classic and subtle, with that discreet "CD" logo.

Despite the name, this palette is not so gold-toned as to be unwearable by someone with a cooler complexion. The only shade that actually really stands out as warm is the one in the top-right corner, which is a peachy gold. The others are a basic but well done cream pearl, a shimmery beige, an expresso brown with gold micro-glitter, and a pale gold glitter.

Indirect natural light.
Swatched clockwise starting at top-left corner,
middle pan swatched at far right.

Indirect natural light, different angle.

Artificial light.

This palette is sort of a mixed bag, though overall I like it.

The cream, gold and beige shades all have a very similar finish, classic Dior - silky-smooth, creamy, fine-textured, and apply with good color pay-off.

The brown is an odd duck, though similar to the way a lot of mattes scattershot with glitter tend to apply. The texture is drier than I'm used to from Dior, slightly patchy and does take some layering to build up color. The micro-glitter actually doesn't fall out noticeably, though it does disappear when you apply and blend. To increase the intensity of the color, and to keep some of the sparkle, it really needs to be patted on over a tacky base. Not just a primer, but something with some creaminess, like the Lise Watier Eye Shine pencils.

The super glittery middle pan is kind of awesome. It's...creamy? Not gritty at all. It applies sheerly, but this is not something I would pack on. I believe it's meant to be dabbed lightly over whatever shadow you've applied in order to give this amazing sparkle that looks almost wet, and reflects like mad. It reminds me a bit of the Stila Jewel Eyeshadows. Not a look I would embrace for everyday purposes, but it's fantastic for adding some oomph to an evening look.

This palette holds up as well as Dior eyeshadows generally do on me, meaning they will last through a work day, over primer, with no problems.

Availability: Difficult to find now, since it was a Holiday LE item, but it is still available on the Nordstrom site. Price is 59$ USD, and was 60$ CAD.

Pros: Gold palette that is still wearable with cooler complexions, great texture for three of the shades, glitter shade can transform your look from day to night.

Cons: Brown shade has some pigmentation/application issues, the emphasis on shimmer and glitter means that this palette is not a stand-alone item, unless you prefer a glitzy eye look.

Dior Spring 2012 - Review Coming Soon

I've been sitting on these for over a week now. They are just so pretty, I haven't been able to bring myself to use them yet. Some makeup you just want to put under glass and look at, you know?