Shu Uemura Bijoux Collection for Spring 2014 - Silk Cushion Eyeshadows and Blushes

I've decided that Shu Uemura is my go-to brand when it comes to creating subtle, ethereal looks. I don't think their range lacks in any products for creating stronger or more graphic makeup, but I do think they excel in particular when it comes to evoking a more delicate, fey sort of beauty. More than any other brand, I think of creatures of air and water and woodland when I look at their collections.

The Bijoux collection for Spring is no exception. Kakuyasu Uchiide, Shu Uemura's international artistic director, suggests that "the key for this look is natural freshness, through using light reflection effectively, and also by using soft colours to create soft contours".

The key words here are "soft" and "light reflection". The formula of the blushes and eyeshadows is a literal interpretation of those concepts: their texture is marshmallow-soft and springy, and they are infused with a shimmer that comes across as either a soft sheen, or as a sunlight-on-ocean-waves sparkle.

The Silk Cushion Blusher is offered in two shades: Rose Quartz, a rose pink, and Orange Quartz, a peachy orange.

Shu Uemura Silk Cushion Blush in Rose Quartz and Orange Quartz

Shu Uemura Silk Cushion Blush in Rose Quartz

Shu Uemura Silk Cushion Blush in Orange Quartz

If you've poked at the Maybelline Dream Bouncy blushes, you won't be taken aback by the texture of these. They have a similar sort of plush "give" when you press into them, leaving behind a dent that very slowly fluffs back up. I would say these have a slightly more mousse-like consistency, but with a similarly slippy feel. They're cream blushes, technically, but don't fall precisely into the dewy camp or the cream-to-powder finish. They don't feel tacky on the skin - or even perceptible, for that matter.

They are actually fairly pigmented, and can be layered up to the full-blown shade featured in the first swatches below, if so desired. I do think they are best applied with a soft touch - specifically a duo-fibre brush. They blend so easily, and look very natural. Even the orange, which I normally would give wide berth to, looks fabulous applied like that. The finish is a satiny sheen, which only underscores that enchanted wood nymph image I have going on in my head. They have this lovely luminosity that doesn't rely on any kind of obvious shimmer.

Wear time was not exceptional. They averaged about 6 hours before I saw fading. If you're prone to having makeup slide off your face, you're better off stashing it in your bag and touching up. The nice thing is that they don't get all weird and cakey if you do need to add a bit throughout the day, even over powder.

In the swatches below I've applied them straight on and then as a softer wash, which is truer to the way I would wear them. (Apologies for the flipped swatches, but I trust you can tell which is the Rose versus the Orange. :P)

The Silk Cushion Eyeshadows are offered in four shades: Amethyst Purple, a pale lilac, Morganite Pink (MORGANite??? Come on now, Shu has to be with me on the fey thing with that one), Peridot Green, a light apple green with a hint of gold, and Amber Brown, an almost minky shade of brown, not nearly as warm as I expected from the name. It actually looks barely darker than my lid shade when applied, despite how it swatches out.

From top left, clockwise: Shu Uemura Silk Cushion Eyeshadows in Amber Brown,
Amethyst Purple, Peridot Green, Morganite Pink

From top left, clockwise: Shu Uemura Silk Cushion Eyeshadows in Amber Brown,
Peridot Green, Morganite Pink, Amethyst Purple

From top left, clockwise: Shu Uemura Silk Cushion Eyeshadows in Morganite Pink,
Amethyst Purple, Peridot Green, Amber Brown

These have the same exact texture as the blushes, with the same potential for pigment payoff. My caveat to this is that they both look and perform better when applied lightly. Applied full on, the same way you would something like a Color Tattoo or a Paint Pot, can actually cause them to fade and crease within a few hours. It's like the slippery texture bunches up over itself as your lid moves naturally throughout the day. (Similar to the way the Flower Beauty and Lise Watier mousse-like cream shadows perform on me, actually.)

I had the best results applying a light wash, be it over a primer or as a finishing veil over another eyeshadow. The colour intensity is diminished, but the sparkle factor is enhanced. (Applied opaquely, they look more metallic/frosty.) The effect looks almost liquid, like the sun reflecting off water. It's a really beautiful look, but if you do prefer to have the colour intensity, you'll definitely need to use a fantastic primer and anticipate reduced wear time.

Shu Uemura Silk Cushion Eyeshadows in Morganite Pink, Amethyst Purple, Peridot Green, Amber Brown
Applied straight on for color intensity.

Shu Uemura Silk Cushion Eyeshadows in Morganite Pink, Amethyst Purple, Peridot Green, Amber Brown
Applied as a sheer wash.

Availability: This collection can be ordered from www.shuuemura.ca and www.shuuemura-usa.com. In Canada, they can also be purchased at Holt Renfrew and select Sephora and Hudson's Bay locations, if still in stock. Prices are 22$ USD/30$ CAD for the eyeshadows, and 25$ USD/35$ CAD for the blushes. (And yeah, the price difference for the blush is...not fun.)

Have you guys checked out anything from this collection yet? Or are you already onto the summer one?

(Items in this review were provided by the brand/pr. This post is not sponsored or compensated, all opinions are mine.)